We had a freeze the night of April 8th. The next morning I received an email from Laura in northern Virginia.
About two weeks prior to the freeze she had transplanted broccoli and cauliflower seedlings that had at least two sets of true leaves and were about 6 inches tall.
Laura reported “with temperatures dipping possibly below 28º they now look pretty wilted.” Her beets (only about 1-2 inches high) were wilted as well.
If you’ve gardened a while and don’t live in a tropical climate, you’ve probably experienced the same thing
Laura did. I know I have.
She wanted to know if I thought her seedlings would recover.
I’ve had seedlings recover and go on to produce abundantly. But I’ve also had those that didn’t. Depends on what variables existed during the freeze and what temperatures that particular vegetable can usually withstand.
Things to consider to help you determine if your seedlings need protection.
Knowing the forecast is probably one of the most important things in helping you determine if and how much protection will keep your seedlings safe.
In early spring you can still have a freeze. It helps to keep an eye on the weather forecast to be ready.
Heavy rains can demolish new seedlings as well as a freeze.
A mist or gentle rain is fine, but heavy rain can in most cases ruin new seedlings especially delicate ones like lettuce. More so if they’re still in an open flat or pot with no protection.
If already transplanted – they can receive a certain amount of protection from mulch. I’ve found that leaf mulch works especially well for this.
Consider more than the temperature forecasted.
When trying to determine whether or not your seedlings need protection from a freeze there’s still more to consider.
If you’ve not already done a search for what is considered the lowest temperature a vegetable can take without freezing – that would be a good next step.
However, keep in mind that the temperature given is general and can differ depending on what other conditions exist during the freeze.
Broccoli as an example:
Search results for broccoli seedlings were:“lowest temperatures that broccoli seedlings can take 20º for short periods”
“Short periods” would give you/me reason for concern. How long is a short period? I would guess one hour — but the bottom line is do you want to chance it?
And how detrimental would it be if you lost them?
If they were mine and the forecast was below 28º and
I didn’t want to take a chance with them – I’d protect them at least with a row cover fabric. I don’t trust the search results temperature of 20º being ok for broccoli.
I don’t often grow broccoli. If I had lots of hands on experience with it surviving below freezing temperatures – that might change my mind.
If I had a nice layer of leaf mulch on their bed and couldn’t get out to cover them, I think they’d have a good chance of making it if the temperature were not below 20º for longer than an hour (especially if they had already gone through wind, cold and rain).
Based on the search result I’d think Laura’s broccoli would/will recover nicely. (Let us know please, Laura how all are doing.)
Nothing is written in stone with the garden.
You’ll have to make a judgement call depending on how important the seedlings are and based on your experience.
Consider how “tough” your seedlings are.
I germinate my seed inside my enclosed porch. Once germinated the seedlings go outside. If temperatures are below freezing at nights I place them under a make-shift cold frame made from old windows.
If I think the cold frame won’t be enough protection I place row cover fabric over them for extra protection before placing the cold frame over them.
Thus they’re hardened off from day one and have most likely (before the freeze comes) already gone through a variety of weather conditions (heat, cold, wind, rain) – making them stronger. So you’ll want to consider what yours have already been through.
If you’ve already transplanted to the garden – a row cover fabric (of thickness for winter) works well. Weight the fabric to keep the wind from blowing it away.
I usually use bricks or stones along the edges. Have also used J hooks on occasion. (How many you use will depend a lot on how strong the winds will be.)
And a nice layer of leaf mulch can also help protect them.
Using Cabbage as an example
Search results were: “Mature cabbages can withstand cold temperatures as low as 20°F. Seedlings and young plants can withstand a light frost.”
I have some of my best looking cabbage seedlings this year. They’ve been out in lots of cold, wind, and rain. Many had several “real leaves” and were about 4 inches tall.
I knew a freeze was forecast. At first I was not going to cover any of the 3 dozen cabbage seedlings. Without doubt I knew they could take 32ºF.
Six tiny one inch seedlings had already been transplanted to the garden with a heavy layer of leaf mulch. The pot with the unplanted seedlings was left in the garden unprotected. All those seedlings made it through unscathed.
Changing My Mind
At the last minute before dark I decided to put all the other larger seedlings under the make shift cold frame, even though I felt they’d make it fine.
My reason: These had been started at just the right time. And there was not enough time remaining this spring to get transplants this large before hot weather comes should anything happen to these.
Cauliflower example
Search results were “lowest temperatures that cauliflower seedlings can take temperatures as low as 40°F (4.4°C) without significant damage. “
In addition – prolonged exposure to 50ºF can cause poor growth.
I don’t grow cauliflower. If I did, and had no hands-on experience, this information would tell me that cauliflower can’t take much cold.
Based on these search results, I would think that Laura might lose at least some of her cauliflower.
Beets
Search results -“Beet seedlings can tolerate soil temperatures as low as 27°F once they have germinated. Once the seedling emerges and develops cotyledons, it can withstand temperatures as low as 28°F.”
I grow beets.
Although the beet itself can take temperatures several degrees below freezing, the leaves can show damage even at 32ºF.
Tops grow quickly so I never cover them in the garden.
(If you grow beets you probably already know how delicious the tops are when sautéed.)
Final Thoughts
I’ve given some basic steps to follow when trying to determine if your seedlings need protection from freezing temperatures.
After those, your hands on experience will help you make the final decision about what to do. And if you make the wrong call you’re in good company. Most all of us have at some point in time.
In her follow up email, Laura wrote:
“You live and you garden and you learn right? That’s what I really love about your attitude towards gardening—you say just try it and learn from it! That takes all the stress out of gardening!”



Excellent post, as always. I’ve been burned more times than I can count because I get too excited and put my seedlings in their permanent home too early. Over the years I’ve learned to be a bit more patient.
Another tip I thought of Ms Theresa, is looking up the last average frost date for the area. In my area it is usually right around May 21st. I usually don’t dare put anything out in April, (for instance, we got 6 inches of snow yesterday, April 17th, and never got above 33 degrees and it was 24 degrees this morning) , but I can get away with putting some things like cabbage and other vegetables that don’t mind a nip in the ground at the beginning of May.
For me, my rule of thumb is, “when in doubt, go ahead and cover.” It doesn’t hurt the plants to be overly cautious and protect them “just in case.”
I’ve also found that the length of the cold snap matters as well. If it’s just going to be 32 degrees or a bit colder for one night, a lot of plants can handle it. That being said, I’m extremely cautious with anything like Tomatoes, Peppers, and most Squash because they really do hate the cold and it’s not worth it to me to lose my seedlings. I’ve found that even if I can baby some of these types of vegetable plants, they don’t get a “leg up” by putting them out early because they go into cold shock and don’t start growing until the temps warm up anyway.
BTW, I’m the same as you when it comes to starting seeds. Though I do use lights because I don’t have any type of room or area inside where there is plenty of light, as soon as the seeds sprout, they go outside anytime it is going to be 40 degrees or above. I haven’t messed around with “hardening off” seedlings for many years. That is such a pain!
Sorry for the rant. 🙂 Thanks for the great post.
Oh, P.S. I’m growing Artichokes this year. Colorado Star. They are not supposed to grow here (and I LOVE challenge), so I started the seeds 02/22/2025 and have been babying them along until they get to go to their designated spot. They aren’t huge, but they are doing very well. Beautiful long leaves of a really nice color of green. If I remember, I’ll let you know if I actually get them to bud!
Hey Rob.
Thanks for taking time to add to the post.
Just to clarify a situation for other readers about
having enough light:
I realize when you start your seed, it’s probably way
too cold to put them outside right away.
I don’t have enough light for seedlings inside either. So if our temperatures are below freezing after germination I give them protection with row cover and then the make shift cold frame over that.
If night time temps are so cold that they may freeze outdoors even with the two layers of protection I’ll haul them in at night and put them out again in the AM.
The exception would be onions that I start in January. I’ll keep those inside by a window that gets morning sun until about March.
Good luck with those Artichokes, Rob!
Theresa
I’ve overwintered cauliflower and got huge, beautiful heads. The plants were not seedlings, though. I have also had broccoli, collard and Kale seedlings that self sowed the year before pop up early in the spring and do fine with freezes and frosts.
Abigail, This hands on experience from you will be exciting and helpful to many.
I don’t even grow cauliflower — and very seldom grow broccoli. But I got excited about your experiences with both. So much so that it made me want to grow them.
Maybe next year.
Thanks for taking time to post your experience.
Theresa
Thank you for this post Theresa! It is I, Laura, from Virginia. An update: That freeze was followed by 5 days of misty drizzle, which, as you state here, further damaged some of my seedlings. All told, I lost about 1/3 of my broccoli, same with the beets, and all but two of my cauliflower. Interestingly, I had planted 2 different varieties of broccoli, Waltham 29 and Calabrese. ALL my losses were with the Waltham. I lost none of the Calabrese. I am making notes for next year and plan to do as you suggest–hold some back “just in case”. Thanks so much for this site and for always answering my questions.
Thanks Laura for taking time to update us on the seedlings.
It’s always sad when we lose some of our seedlings. Hopefully the survivors
will produce an abundance and make up for the ones you lost!
Glad you’ll hold back some in the future. Having back up is always a good plan!
Stay in touch Laura. It’s always good to hear from you.
Theresa
Hi Theresa, thank you for this post, very useful as always!
I’m genuinely curious, you didn’t mentioned growing seedlings in jugs in this post, have you stopped using this method or maybe by April the average temperature is too high for jugs and it’s easier to cover/uncover the seedlings with the cold frame instead, or…?
We are thinking of you
Giulia
I ran out of jugs Giulia. Only had one jug with its top in tact.
Also the ones in small pots were small seedlings that I transferred to the pots – which I usually don’t do. But I needed time. They continued to grow nicely after I repotted. Still don’t have all in the garden but working on it.
Theresa
Hello Theresa
I couldn’t get to cover my garden at the end of the season. I’ve got different weeds than I had last year. They look a bit like clover. There are purple flowers on them and when I got to my community garden there were loads of Bees enjoying themselves.
I weeded on of my beds and planted onions. Fingers crossed . Thought I’d give it a go.
Could not for the life of me find straw last year . I’m hoping this year will be different.
I feel like I need to add something to the soil since I didn’t use leaf mulch last year.
Oh and I transplanted an Asparagus plant into one of my beds. Never grew it before so again thought I’d give it a go.
I removed all of the dead dried debris and found about 5-6 little bitty spears growing. I was THRILLED .
Nice to see you on email again,
Sorry you’ve have some challenges . Hope you are feeling stronger .
Slow and Steady wins the race
Regards
Susan Sullivan
Hey Susan,
I wonder if the “weed” that looks a bit like clover with purple flowers
(possibly considered pink by some) could be pink Woodsorrel? It’s an oxalis.
Glad you added onions. this year. They’re such a classic and filled with health benefits.
I too hope you will be able to find straw this year. In the interim there
are many things you can use. Pine needles are great. One of my favorite mulches.
Dried grass cuttings are good. Wood chips can be used too. You can even grow a cover crop with things like tomatoes, cukes and other things that need a little space between them. And of course dried leaves or any plant residue can also be used.
You’ll love having fresh asparagus. As I’m sure you already know, folks start harvesting in their 3rd year of growth
When you wrote about the asparagus you said, I removed all of the dead dried debris — “ Did you mean that you just removed it to look for new growth or did you mean that you removed all you plant residue from the garden? If you meant the latter it would be good to review this post: https://tendingmygarden.com/what-are-you-doing-with-finished-plants/
When you mentioned “Nice to see you on email again,” it made me
wonder if you are receiving notice of my posts. I hope so.
Was great to get an update on what you are doing Susan. Thanks
for taking the time to fill me in.
Wishing you a great and productive season!
Theresa
It’s interesting to me that broccoli and cauliflower are rated so differently for cold hardiness, since they’re almost the same thing. I would not have expected that!
I felt exactly the same about that Anna.
I was so glad to learn in your second message that you now have more energy! As you know, feeling energetic is such a blessing!
Keep up the good work Anna!
Theresa